The Art of Terroir: Wine & Sculpture at The Donum Estate in Sonoma

Jan 4

I recently enjoyed a member’s tasting experience at the gorgeous and renowned Donum Estate, nestled in the beautiful Carneros region of Sonoma Valley. Drenched in warm sunlight and sitting atop 190 acres of picturesque rolling hills, this sleek property stands out against the lush landscape in which it is enveloped. Newly renovated by award-winning Danish architect David Thulstrup, the modern simplicity of the space is best experienced by the light of day. Thulstrup credited his heritage as a significant influence in his design process, “…being Scandinavian, I naturally cherish light, and how it changes throughout the course of a day – an element that I have put focus on for the interior of the Donum Home.”

Since its inception in 2001, Donum Estate has produced some of the Valley’s best and most celebrated Pinot Noirs. To my surprise, I was utterly bowled over by the elegant Donum 2022 Carneros Chardonnay, one of the best Chardonnays I have had in years. I was so captivated that I purchased some to bring home, eager to share it with my partner and friends.

Since my foray into the luxury wine business in 2022, I have immersed myself in the regions of Napa and Sonoma like never before. A knowledgeable colleague suggested I visit this stunning property, as he was acquainted with my deep passion for the arts; when he mentioned that Donum was home to the largest and most impressive collection of artwork in California’s wine region, my interest was tremendously piqued.

A Warm Welcome

Upon arriving at The Donum Estate, I used the call box to connect with the cellar door concierge, who graciously granted me access. The slow-motion opening of the white farmhouse gates was cinematic, which ignited my senses. As I navigated my car along the driveway, I was transfixed by a monumental sculpture by Jaume Plensa at the end of the road. I proceeded carefully down the path, filled with anticipation for the afternoon's wine discovery. After a turbulent flight from L.A., I was eager to relax and unwind at this stunning property.

As I entered the foyer, I was welcomed by a staff member whose warm greeting and a cold glass of Rosé of Pinot Noir instantly put me at ease. As we strolled past a striking steel-like Yayoi Kusama pumpkin sculpture, my excitement grew for what lay beyond the double doors of the estate.

The tasting room, adorned with expansive windows, showcased breathtaking views of Donum’s undulating landscapes and meticulously maintained vineyards—an ideal mise-en-scène for the experience that awaited me. I instantly spotted an artwork by Ghanaian artist El Anatsui draped from the wall and was pleased to see this piece featured in the main space, albeit the installation was slightly awkward. I became familiar with El Anatsui years ago while admiring one of his larger works at The Broad in Downtown L.A.

The Wine Tasting Experience

I settled comfortably at an adorned table, ready to indulge in a thoughtfully curated selection of wines complemented by a sumptuous charcuterie board featuring an array of cured meats, figs, artisanal cheeses, and honey sourced from bees on the property.

The tasting began with a flight from Donum Estate’s acclaimed Pinot Noirs. Each pour revealed the unique character of the grapes, influenced by the estate’s terroir. The first wine, a 2018 Donum Estate Pinot Noir, captivated my palate with its vibrant notes of cherry and subtle hints of earthiness. As we went through the tasting, each subsequent wine showcased the meticulous craftsmanship in every bottle. The 2019 vintage, with its more profound complexity and velvety finish, truly stood out, leaving a lasting impression. With my completion of WSET 2 last year and my exposure to wines in this region, I can confidently say that 2019 was a superb year for California wines.

My experience reached new heights upon discovering that all of the wines are adorned with custom artwork by Ai Weiwei, who has a huge presence in the Donum art collection, leaving me impressed.

The Art

Established in 2011, The Donum Collection stands as one of the world's most expansive private sculpture collections, accessible to the public via reservation.

Nestled within The Donum Estate, over 60 monumental sculptures—many designed specifically for their locations—transform the 200-acre property. Each artwork engages with the landscape, inviting viewers to contemplate scale, nature, and creativity. According to Wallpaper Magazine, it “ranks among the world's top destinations for outdoor sculptures.” This dynamic collection showcases diverse artists, featuring pieces from renowned creators across 18 countries and six continents. Donum beautifully intertwines the realms of art, land, and wine, establishing itself as a noteworthy destination on the international stage.

Although much of the work is not to my taste, I was overwhelmingly impressed by the magnitude of the collection and in total awe of what Mei and Allan Warburg have amassed. From a profile in ARTnews Top 200 Global Collectors, I learned that the couple focuses on collecting international art in addition to commissioning monumental pieces for The Donum Estate. Two standout pieces that held my attention were Crowded Bed (2022) by Rebecca Manson and Vertical Panorama Pavilion (2022) Studio Other Spaces, founded by artist Olafur Eliasson and architect Sebastian Behmann. Even from a distance, I could see the imprint of Olafur Eliasson in the incredible structure.

You can browse the entire Donum Estate collection here.

Why Book at The Donum Estate

What sets Donum Estate apart is the exceptional wine and the integration of art throughout the property. As I savored each sip, I couldn’t help but admire the stunning sculptures that dotted the landscape. I found myself wandering the grounds, engrossed by the interplay between the natural beauty of the vineyard and the artistic expressions scattered throughout.

As the afternoon sun began to lower in the sky, casting a golden glow over the estate, I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me. The combination of excellent wine, massive art, and the serene environment made for a perfect reprieve from everyday chaos.

Whether you’re a wine enthusiast, an art lover, or simply looking for a beautiful place to unwind, Donum Estate should be at the top of your list.