Dreaming of Contramar, One of My Favorite Restaurants in Mexico City
My first trip to Mexico City came in the form of a 12-hour layover while on a flight to Santiago, Chile. Like with any trip, I began to review my travel notes and research, with gastronomy guiding the development of my itinerary.
Contramar was at the top of my list of places to eat in Mexico City. Over the years I had followed the owner, Gabriela Cámara, in the press, devoured endless reviews, and fawned over spectacular photographs of her gorgeous fish plates. There was a signature dish on the menu, the Pescado Contramar, that received overwhelming acclaim and I was eager to see it with my own eyes. The fish, dressed in two distinct salsas, a deep red and an electrifying green, was prepared divorciado style, meaning its sauces were split in two. It was fanned with precision and skillfully plated on a large wooden block, its unique presentation eliciting a reaction from all those who saw it.
I arrived, without a reservation, and to my delight was immediately seated at a table dressed with a crisp white tablecloth. The stylish modern decor, varied in hues of blue with a prominent mural of hand-painted fish, evoked the vibrancy of the beautiful Mexican oceans I enjoyed on many vacations prior. I was welcomed by a swarm of restaurant staff, both friendly and attentive, eager to ensure that my experience lived up to their legacy.
After walking on foot for hours, I was enthusiastic about the lunch ahead. From the menu I selected pulpo ceviche, mixed aguachile, and atún tostada. The waiter was impressed by my order, as the serving size amounted to a small mountain of seafood at my table for one. Nevertheless, he did not miss the opportunity to encourage one more plate and with a large smile, arrived at my side to showcase the Pescado Contramar I had fantasized so much about. Unfortunately, the fish was too large for one, and I would have to wait until the next time.