Frogtown’s Lingua Franca: A Modern American Restaurant Overlooking the L.A. River
Lingua Franca is a modern American restaurant in Frogtown, Los Angeles, that has quickly become a favorite among Eastside dwellers. Owned and operated by Lauren and Peter Lemos, the husband-and-wife duo behind the beloved Wax Paper, the restaurant offers a new take on classic American dishes, focusing on fresh, seasonal ingredients. The menu changes regularly, but you can always expect to find something deliciously inventive.
Situated at the end of Allesandro Street along the bike path overlooking the Los Angeles River, Lingua Franca mirrors the chill vibrations of the surrounding area. The dining room is spacious and airy, with floor-to-ceiling windows that look outward towards the River. There is also a large outdoor patio, my preferred seating area, that’s perfect for dining al fresco on a warm night. For happy hour, it’s fun to order a frozen cocktail and take in the scene of the surrounding area.
As a born and raised Angeleno, I find it curious that there has been a lot of discussion about the L.A. River in the past decade but especially since the onslaught of Covid. Growing up here, you would’ve been laughed at if you expressed that the “river” offered “stunning views.” This phrase is a part of the language I have spotted in almost every review of the newly developed restaurants along or close to the River. If people use this phrase for long enough will people start to believe it? I, fortunately, have sight in both my eyes and this gorgeous view has yet to be witnessed. Interestingly, I did come across this L.A. River Rebrand case study if you’d like to investigate further.
Food & Drink at Lingua Franca - What to Order
The wine list at Lingua Franca is a delight to explore, showcasing a focus on California appellations. While there are some international wines from Italy, France, and Austria, it was the selection from Sonoma, San Luis Obispo, and Santa Maria that piqued my interest. There is also a small menu of excellent cocktails, including my personal favorite, Our Famous Frozen Concoction made with Muscadet, guava, strawberry, and lime, and the Farmers Market Lillet Fruit Cocktail, a refreshing vino blanc with sliced strawberries.
There have been mixed reviews about Lingua Franca’s food and though I agree there are some gastronomical misses, I left the restaurant impressed with their Whole Roasted Onion Salad made with pickled onion, shallot, and pistachio pureé. This bulbous dish was unlike anything I had eaten before. The element of culinary surprise holds great value for me and for that reason, I was excited about their menu and thrilled to see how it evolves over time. Another standout dish, that was gorgeous in presentation and delightful to eat was Kiki’s Lavash made with peppercorn-crusted albacore, pickled beet cream cheese, pickles, and fresh herbs. This is a must-order at the restaurant.
We finished our meal with Mashti Malone’s Date Affogato, made with Ritual Espresso and whipped cream. It felt meaningful that Lingua Franca was serving Mashti, the cherished Persian ice cream company that has been an L.A. institution for almost 40 years. It was a lovely way to end our meal in Frogtown.
The Scene
Lingua Franca is located in a former industrial building, which has been transformed into a chic and modern space. The dining vibe is mellow, even when the restaurant is busy, which it regularly is. Happy Hour takes place on the river-facing front patio, which is ideal for people watching or straight chilling. It’s also a great introduction to the restaurant for those not committed to trying dinner service quite yet.
The Service
The service at Lingua Franca is welcoming and warm. The staff is knowledgeable about the menu and wine list, and are happy to assist with recommendations. On all of my visits, each employee took the time to ensure a great dining experience.
Price
Wine: $15 - $20 by the glass, $60 - $80 for a bottle
Beer & Cocktails: $7 - $15
Small Plates: $11 - $25
Large Plates: $24 - $45
Location
Lingua Franca
2990 Allesandro St, Los Angeles, CA 90039
+1 (323) 522-3725
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