During the first two years of the pandemic, my dining was limited, so I turned to my own kitchen for exciting gastronomical moments. I also began reading food-focused memoirs again and delighted in revisiting films with culinary themes like Tampopo, Moonstruck, and The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover. I began to lust for local food news that would land in my inbox and then fantasize about my big reservation plans for the future as if somehow it was promised.

In the Fall of 2021, I texted my dear friend, Jane Shin, regarding a Wallstreet Journal story that highlighted a Korean American power couple, Chefs Kat and John Hong, who had conceptualized a 5,000-square-foot Korean deli that was located in the Arts District of Downtown Los Angeles. I was beside myself with the news and we made plans to check it out as soon as it was completed and open to the public. Months passed and our anticipation grew to a frenzy. Each time we connected over Korean cuisine, like the unrivaled Yu Chun Chic Naeng Myun or much-hyped Daedo Sikdang, we’d talk about our countdown to Yangban Society. It had become a thing.

The Food

As with all our meals, Jane and I ordered a number of dishes so that we could experience the diversity of Yangban Society’s menu. We ordered the following:

Soy Eggs - bathed in soy, mirin, onion, garlic, assorted mushrooms

Marinated Tofu

“Danmuji” Pickle - Korean radish, cauliflower florets, bay leaf, black peppercorn, turmeric, garlic

Pea Shoot and Chive - soy dashi apple vinaigrette, toasted crumbs, Korean chili flakes

Congee Pot Pie - roasted chicken stock, short grain rice, ginger, white pepper

Chilled “Dotori” Acorn Noodles - roasted Korean seaweed, fried garlic, scallions, pickled perilla seed, shirodashi vinaigrette

Yangban Wings - twice-fried, dressed in a soy-garlic glaze

In good faith, I can only recommend the Yanbang Wings, which I thoroughly enjoyed. The crunch of the twice-fried chicken was sensational and the flavor of the soy-garlic glaze was a delectable blend of savory and sweet. These would be a killer takeout order, enjoyed at home alongside a cold crisp Korean beer like Hite.

The other dishes weren’t bad, they simply didn’t excite our senses. Our anticipation had been met with disappointment. We spent quite some time discussing our meal, finding the words to articulate exactly what led to our dissatisfaction. Taste buds led the discourse. I suggested that the dishes had muted flavors, potentially aimed at a crowd unfamiliar with robust Korean offerings. Over the years I’ve learned that the Korean kitchen encompasses 달다 (Dalda) - Sweet · 시다 (Sida) - Sour · 짜다 (Jjada) - Salty · 쓰다 (Sseuda) - Bitter · 맵다 (Maepda) - Spicy. Unfortunately, we could not feel that essence coming through.

The Scene

Cool concept and design, with ample indoor and outdoor seating. The restaurant was abundant with cute couples and families but there’s also a very welcoming vibe for a party-of-one. I love not feeling rushed in my seat; Yangban Society is relaxed, which I appreciated. Although I loved the style of the restaurant more than the food, I’m still interested in finding out what the dinner (Super) atmosphere is like.

Price & Service

For Brunch: Small plates approx $2.50 - $15.00, Entrees $14 - $52

Drinks: Non-Alchoholic $4 - $7, Alcoholic $6 - $16

Service is intentionally minimal. It’s deli-style which means you walk up to the register and place your order from the case (and menu). You’re then issued a number and then find a seat for yourself. The woman who took our order was lovely and ensured we had everything we needed. Make sure to order a complimentary carafe of water to accompany your meal because a small cup simply won’t cut it.

I want to make a note about something I observed from individuals on Yelp regarding gratuity. Many complained that they were asked to leave a tip when placing their order and not at the end of their meal. It’s 2022 and we’re in year 3 of a global pandemic – service workers are putting their health at risk every day by simply showing up and serving you. If you’re privileged enough to afford a casual $100 brunch, make no fuss about a 20% tip and instead, consider 25%. Be generous above all.

Location

Yangban Society
712 S Santa Fe Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90021
+1 213 866-1987

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