Night + Market Song, located on the busy Eastside strip of Sunset Blvd in Silverlake, is my favorite Thai restaurant in Los Angeles – if not for the คอหมูย่าง pork toro (grilled fatty pig neck) alone. Without a doubt, they are preparing some of the best Thai dishes this city has ever seen, and when it’s flavor bombs you are seeking to drop on that tongue, pull up to this pink splashed establishment and get ready for a total sensory experience. For those who might be intimidated about the spice factor you so often hear about in any conversation about Night + Market, I must report I was unphased by the heat. I should have also prefaced that by saying I was born and raised in the SGV and have Sichuan pepper corns flowing though my blood system; my friend Ike, who was so kind enough to take me on this delicious dinner was sweating bullets on the other hand. I was quick to dig in and when I raised my head to give the thumbs up, I saw the beads of sweat rolling off his forehead. It was a beautiful culinary moment.
This is the kind of restaurant that I love most, one that is steeped in rich family history, recipes, and flavors. Opened by 32 year-old chef Kris Yenbamroong, who has no formal culinary training, but instead has life-long experience from growing up in a family-owned restaurant, he aims to bring the most authentic Thai food to the people. I am throwing up the emoji pray hands because I’m grateful for it! I loved everything we ordered, let me count the ways. And who could say no to a bright pink wall with a vintage Cindy Crawford gazing deeply into my eyes?
So what did I eat? With any Thai meal, your girl is hot for the chicken larb salad (photo directly below). While everyone was thinking the party was going up with Pad Thai at their local jawn (kinda boring y’all), yung NJ was devouring as much chicken larb as she possibly could. It’s the lime + chile combination that goes after my sweet Mexican American heart every time. The chicken larb at N+M Song was exactly what I hoped it would be – a nice pucker brought on by the lime paired with chili, and a much smoother flavor with the chicken to balance it out. May I suggest this is the perfect summer salad? Sure we are in Fall, but I’m still right. In my dream universe I’d be lime queen, sitting down with a tall glass of Vietnamese soda chanh muối and a large bowl of chicken larb. What a kingdom that would be! I digress.
Back to that pork neck, the stuff dreams are made of. Salty like bacon and fatty just how your mother likes it, this dish is one of the most delicious things I’ve ever had the privilege of eating. Once I took a bite, although knowing many more delicious plates were on their way out, I had fantasized about my entire meal being plates upon plates upon plates of savory pork neck. Not to be neglected was the simple plate of coconut stick rice, which is a glorious vehicle for picking up the other bites. You simply tear off a piece, mold it in your hand, and scoop up whatever delicious snack you have in front of you. Rounding out the rest of our Thai paradise was a generous portion of the Crispy Rice Salad, made with soured pork, raw ginger, onion, peanuts, cilantro, chile. I love spicy and crispy so this was a no brainer. Bright notes in each bite, each one bringing you closer and closer to buying a ticket to Thailand once you leave the restaurant. Last and certainly not least, CURRRRYYYYY. The Khao Soi Gai with chicken was the move, made with curried noodles and topped with fresh cilantro, purple onion, & chili. This was the spiciest of the dishes of the night and a great way to end dinner – after everything was either eaten or boxed up to go, there were still a hint of Thai curry lingering in my mouth.
Night + Market Song, 3322 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026